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Lhotse (60 Days)

Lhotse 8516m, 4th highest mountain in the world
Lhotse 8516m, 4th highest mountain in the world
Lhotse stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.

Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.

Lhotse Main was first climbed in 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition. Lhotse Shar was first climbed on December 5, 1979 by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter by taking the SE-ridge. It was not until 2001 that Lhotse Middle was conquered by the Russian Expedition (See below for details).

Historical Timeline: 

Year

Events

Notes/Team

1956

First ascent of main summit

On May 18th, the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger became the first people to summit Lhotse.

1965

First attempt on Lhotse Shar

A Japanese expedition failed in the attempt but managed to reach 8100m.

1979

First ascent of Lhotse Shar

On May 12, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar

1981

Second Ascent of Lhotse Shar

First solo ascent without the use of oxygen

A Swiss team makes 2nd successful ascent

April 30, 1981 by Hristo Prodanov from Bulgaria

1984

Third successful ascent of Lhotse Shar

May 20th by a team from Czechoslovakia

1996

First female summit of Lhotse

Chantal Mauduit becomes the first female to summit Lhotse

1999

Failed traverse attempt

A Russian team trying to become the first to summit Lhotse Middle and to traverse the three summits fails due to weather.

2001

First ascent of Lhotse Middle

On May 23, 2001, the first ascent of Lhotse Middle was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Serguei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition 

Country: -› Nepal
Duration: -› 60 Days
Min. Altitude: -› (0m./0ft.)
Max. Altitude: -› (8516m./27940ft.)
Walking Per Day: -› Approximately 5-6hrs
Nature: -› Camping
Grade: -› Hard
Best Season: -› Mar-May-Jun.
Price Per Person: -› 0
Day 01:  Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to hotel

Day 02: Kathmandu free day hotel

Day 03: Kathmandu - Official formalities, hotel

Day 04: Flight: Ktm-Lukla, Trek to Phakding

Day 05: Trek to Namche

Day 06: Rest Day Namche

Day 07: Trek to Tengboche

Day 08: Trek to Pheriche

Day 09: Trek to Lobuche

Day 10: Trek to Gorakshep

Day 11: Trek to base camp

Day 12: Base Camp Set up & Preparation for climbing

Day 15-52: Climbing period of Mount Lhotse

Day 53: Withraw to base camp

Day 54: Base Camp to Lobuche


Day 55: Trek to Tengboche

Day 56: Trek to Namche 

Day 57:  Trek to  Lukla

Day 58: Flight Lukla to Ktm, transfer to hotel

Day 59: Kathmandu, hotel

Day 60 : Final Departure, transfer to Airport

Lhoste 8516m
Name of Group:  Seven Summit Lhoste Expedition 2017 Spring
For: Expedition Cost: Full Board Cost :$.......  BC Service Cost:$.......                     
Price Includes:  
                        
(01) Arrival & Departure :
Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport   
          
(02) Hotel In Kathmandu  : 4 nights in Katmandu 4 star Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room      
 
               
(03) Domestic flight:
KTM-Lukla-KTM with domestic Airport tax

 (04) Expedition cargo : KTM-Lukla-KTM by domestic airlines  
 
                   
(05) Transportation:
Necessary Transportation From Kathmandu-Base Camp-Kathmandu for all Member and Staffs
                      

(06) Permit :
Lhoste expedition permit ,ice fall Route ,Summit Route Fixing fee, National park & TIMS permit.       
             
(07) Garbage Management :Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees 

(08) Lodging & Fooding : Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base camp for member & Staffs   
 

(09) Cargo Clearance : International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes 

(10) Liaison Officer : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary ,accommodation .
                      

(11) Base Camp Staff :
Base camp Cook & kitchen Helper
               
       
(12) Porter :
Porters per member up to Base camp & Porters return from Base camp 

 (13) Staff Salary and allowance : All Nepali staffs & porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
                       

(14) Insurance :
All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance 
 
                   
(15) Member Luggage :
70 Kg per member for personal baggage
  
                     
(16) Base Tent :
VE25 North face or Kailas  tents for base camp for per member  
   
                  
(17) Base Base equipment : Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears

(18) Heater : Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp

(19) Light : 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
 

(20) Dinner:  one Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu  with Nepalese Staff

 (01-19) Base camp service   

  
(21) Oxygen: (O2)-Poisk cylinder: 04 oxygen bottle for each member and 03oxygen bottle for each High altitude Sherpa

               
(22) Mask & Regulator :
1 Set of top Out mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa
 
(23) Permit : Satellite Phone /walkie talkie    Phone if necessary in basis of Member
                 

(24) High Altitude Climbing Sherpa:
1 Climbing Sherpa per member  and Climbing Bonus U$1500   
                    

(25) High camp service  :
Necessary cooking gas,  cooking pot  for member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude  tent, high food  and fixing gear  (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4)

 (01-25) full board service  

                
Price Excludes:
   
                       
(01) Lunch & Dinner:
Lunch & dinner in Katmandu Hotel stay and more the 4 nights in Kathmandu Hotel 
                      

(02) Insurance :
Travel and high altitude insurance ,accident, medical & emergency evacuation  
                    

(03) Personal Expenses: T
elephone, Internet,  Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment and shopping  
                     

(04) Nepal's
Visa: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days ( to be applied for 100 days US$ 100)  
                    

(05) Sherpa summit Bonus & Tips :
Sherpa Summit bonus US$1000 , please  calculate some tips    
                   

(06) Extra porter:
If Extra porter needed more then calculate  US$ 120 for  extra porter up to Base Camp per 30 kg
                      

(07) Rescue Evacuation :
Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed and all other personal nature expenses     

Member Personal Equipment
 S/No Particular Qty
(1) Down suits (dangri) 1
(2) Summit shoe 1
(3) Walking shoe 1
(4) Crampon 1
(5) Summit Glove (Mitten) 1
(6) Normal gloves 2
(7) Summit Snow goggles 1
(8) Glacier glasses 1
(9) Ice axe 1
(10) Harness 1
(11) jumer 1
(12) Carabiners (normal) 3
(13) Sleeping bag (-40C) 1
(14) Down filled Mattress 1
(15) Summit socks 2
(16) Normal socks 3
(17) Climbing bag (40 ltr) 1
(18) Helmet 1
(19) Down jacket 1
(20) Down trouser 1
(21) 8 finger / descender 1
(22) Headlamp (Icon or Spot) 1
(23) Gore-tex jacket 1
(24) Gore-tex trouser 1
(25) Fleece jacket 1
(26) Fleece trouser 1
(27) Fleece liner gloves 3
(28) Screw Gate Carabiner 1
(29) Balaclava (windstopper) 1
(30) Thermos bottle 1
(31) Base layer (woolen) 2 (set)
(32) Water bottle normal 1

Climbing Gears
S/No Particular
(1) Ice crews
(2) Fix rope
(3) snow bars
(4) EPI gas
(5) Rock piton
(6) Carabiners (normal)
(7) High tent
(8) Summit rope
(9) Cooking pot
(10) Snow shovel
(12) Ice hammer / adge (set)
(13) Member high food
(14) Oxygen
(15) Mask & regulator
(16) Quick Draws

EXPEDITION TO MT. LHOTSE

2002: SPRING


Mr. Mingma Sherpa, first Nepali to summit 14 peaks of the world summit Mt. Lhotse in 2002. Mr Chhang Dawa sherpa summit 2002 with Iranian Team


2012/SPRING:

In 2012 spring we had organized our first expedition to Mt. Lhotse. The name of this expedition was “Seven Summit Lhotse Expedition – 2012”. One Sherpa and one Korean climbing member were able to summit. There were no any accidents during this expedition.

2012/AUTUMN:

We had organized “Seven Summit Polish Lhotse Expedition” to Mt. Lhotse in 2012 autumn. Members were unable to summit due to bad weather. One of our Sherpa lost his life while returning back after the attempt of Summit.

2013/SPRING:

We organized big team expedition to Mt. Lhotse in 2013 spring. The title of this expedition was “Seven Summit International Lhotse Expedition – 2013 spring”. Three Chinese, two Spanish, one British and four Sherpa were able to summit.  There were no any accidents during this expedition.

 

Map

Map of Lhotse
maginelle stef From belgium
belgian gasherbrum expe 2013 was supported by SST and Arnold Coster. thanks guys for your profession...
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